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Zmags
ISSUE 67 2020 / £30 / US$45
FINEWINE
THE WORLD OF
ISSUE 67 2020 / A YEAR ON THE CÔTE D'OR / PRESTIGE CUVÉE ROSÉ
2018 BURGUNDY / 2015 BAROLO / LALOU BIZE-LEROY / GREDOS / KOSHU
WWW.WOW.PT
ISSUE 67 2020 ISSN 1743-503X
FINEWINE
THE WORLD OF
www.worldoffinewine.com
Founder Laurence Orbach
Editorial Adviser Hugh Johnson OBE
Contributing Editor Andrew Jefford
Editor Neil Beckett
neil.beckett@worldoffinewine.com
Deputy Editor David Williams
david.williams@worldoffinewine.com
Managing Editor Victoria Daskal
victoria.daskal@worldoffinewine.com
Tastings Editor Anastasia Edwards
anastasia.edwards@worldoffinewine.com
Food Editor Francis Percival
francis.percival@worldoffinewine.com
ISSUE 67 2020 / £30 / US$45 FINEWINE
WWW.WOW.PT
ISSUE 67 2020 ISSN 1743-503X FINEWINE
CONTENTS Issue 67 2020 Feat
YEARS OF SERVING THE BEST Since 1820, our fine
CONTENTS Issue 67 2020 Regulars
CONTENTS Issue 67 2020 Tast
CONTR§IBUTORS We go to great lengths to persuade
« … un des sommets du millésime dans ce secteur
contributors of Wine in 1995. As Scalawine,
contributors
opinion / l'âme du vin The philosopher's drinking
NOU§VEAU Photography by Jon Wyand 18 | THE WORL
2019 Burgundy: Another record, if smaller, year
Late May and early June were warmer, b
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review A de
L ooks can be deceiving—especially
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
fin is the heart of the market,” Anginot says. “F
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
L'abus d'alcool est dangereux pour la santé. À co
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
the house, and it started a period of economic pu
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review 20
offshore, have made generous donations, both gene
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Mich
Sir Roger Scruton (1944–2020) Professor Barry C
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Eigh
THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.
feature / De Gustibus / Albion awakes
ALBION AWAKES by Hugh Johnson I t is a
LIQUID§ASSETS Buying to invest, buying to drink—o
Follow your nose If I'd waited 18 months and begu
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Vi
IT'S A CELLAR, NOT A VAULT
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review AUC
6 Global wine-auction revenue statistics by
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Si
New spirit The presence of spirits—especially whi
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review A S
WFW Drinkers' Index, by WMJ The World of Fine Win
opinion / prise de mousse Diversification and conv
“With so much to lose why wouldn't you want to st
PRE§VIEW An evocative portrait of a region and it
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 67 | 2020 | 51
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
An exceptional work of fabulous depth and breadth
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review co
Photography courtesy of Burghound herbicides and
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Tho
From great experience and expertise comes penetra
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review His
how designations of origin have evolved in Austri
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review A c
Shutterstock: Oleg Golovnev The American food au
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
of Rare, raising a suspicion that production may
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Bol
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review 20
For the Domaine, 2017 was a generou
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Pode
The flagship wine, Petrucci, first mad
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Domä
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 67 | 2020 | 71
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
opinion / à la volée Fire and brimstone Tom
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Ha
THE TASTING HELD IN TOURS-SUR-MARNE ON NOVEMBER
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
renewed flowering, but by the late 1980s the esta
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 67 | 2020 | 83
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Ma
All photography by Jon Wyand THE WORLD OF FINE W
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review T
1995 A yield of 40hl/ha; 13.1% ABV. The 1995 see
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Peay
A snapshot of the AVA Andy Peay explains: “Peay w
opinion / myths and realities The balancing act o
allowing wines such as Grosses Gewächs to be desc
feature / face to face / Brian Croser A FIGHTE
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 67 | 2020 | 93
feature / face to face / Brian Croser there w
essential pathway, which is moderation in everyth
feature / Burgundy Portrait / Benoît Droin BEN
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 67 | 2020 | 97
feature / wine and words / Hospices de Beaune '19
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 65 | 2019 | 99
100 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 67 | 2020
PRESTIGE CUVÉE ROSÉ: A HIGHER TONE by Essi
feature / Essi Avellan MW / Prestige cuvée rosé
With a new mindset, many maisons have i
feature / Essi Avellan MW / Prestige cuvée rosé
It is quite the paradox that one now has to pay s
feature / Essi Avellan MW / Prestige cuvée rosé
La Grande Année Rosé 2004 An original disgorge
feature / Essi Avellan MW / Prestige cuvée rosé
Avize, Cramant, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger for the Ch
feature / Essi Avellan MW / Prestige cuvée rosé
Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2008 A sublime come-
feature / Essi Avellan MW / Prestige cuvée rosé
Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2008 Classy nose, ful
feature / Catherine Petrie MW / A year on the Côt
feature / Catherine Petrie MW / A year on the Côt
This task was finished by late May, by which t
feature / Catherine Petrie MW / A year on the Côt
certainly easier to write about concentrated volu
feature / Roger Morris / Santa Lucia Highlands
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 66 | 2019 | 121
feature / Roger Morris / Santa Lucia Highlands C
Italian-speaking sections of Switzerland, own man
feature / Roger Morris / Santa Lucia Highlands
the nearby San Andreas Fault and the shift
feature / Roger Morris / Santa Lucia Highlands
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 66 | 2019 | 127
opinion / curiosities For the love of wine an
One damp winter's night, following a g
feature / symposium / Domaine du Comte Liger-Bela
VACHERIN MONT D’OR, COMTÉ, OSSAU-IRATY The thre
feature / on the vine 1 / Lalou Bize-Leroy
LALOU BIZE-LEROY: FORCE OF NATURE The win
feature / on the vine 1 / Lalou Bize-Leroy we
that Lalou increasingly struggled to find wines t
feature / on the vine 1 / Lalou Bize-Leroy
D'Auvenay's magical Aligoté suggests that Lalou's
feature / on the vine 2/ Brokenwood BROKENWO
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 67 | 2020 | 139
feature / On the Vine/ Brokenwood
every year. It sometimes feels—in Hunter Valley,
feature / on the vine 2 / Brokenwood
possible. Chris Ringland, who made Three Rivers a
feature / genius loci / Sierra de Gredos
T he rougher the vineyard, the m
feature / genius loci / Sierra de Gredos
€4 a kilo to produce: without an additional incom
feature / genius loci / Sierra de Gredos “When
variation, which is consistent with it being a re
feature / vinifera / Koshu
KOSHU AND THE UNCANNY: A POSTCAR
feature / vinifera / Koshu
THE TASTING Aruga Branca Vinhal Issehara Koshu
feature / vinifera / Koshu
quality fruit, even for Koshu, than the tr
feature / vin voyage / A Home in Burgundy A HO
confided were appalled that we should be greeted
feature / vin voyage / A Home in Burgundy dou
Terroir wines designed to share Enjoy with moder
opinion / one bottle / 2008 Château Musar Blanc,
Viña von Siebenthal Aconcagua Valley, Chile
BESPOKE STORAGE – EVERY CASE CARED FOR IND
TASTINGS THE WORLD OF FINE WI
CONTENTS 166 Laying Down 2018 Burgundy: The Bala
individually to the tasters and reproduce them in
tasting / laying down / 2018 Burgundy 2018 BUR
notice—a metaphorical moment, perhaps, but a day
tasting / laying down / 2018 Burgundy CHABLI
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2018 Burgundy fine,
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2018 Burgundy suppl
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2018 Burgundy DOMAIN
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2018 Burgundy with
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2018 Burgundy Echéze
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2018 Burgundy CÔTE D
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2018 Burgundy langu
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2018 Burgundy Beaune
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2018 Burgundy Volnay
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / savor / Alsace and Loire Pinot Noir
assessment, Jasper Morris confessed he had only f
tasting / savor / Alsace and Loire Pinot Noir
Andrew Jefford AJ | Jasper Morris MW JM | Catheri
tasting / savor / Alsace and Loire Pinot Noir
Andrew Jefford AJ | Jasper Morris MW JM | Catheri
tasting / savor / Alsace and Loire Pinot Noir
Andrew Jefford AJ | Jasper Morris MW JM | Catheri
tasting / laying down / 2015 Barolo 2015 BAROL
complexity but are already showing considerable c
tasting / laying down / 2015 Barolo Diego Co
Bruno Besa BB | Andrew Jefford AJ | Michael Palij
tasting / laying down / 2015 Barolo Paolo Sc
Bruno Besa BB | Andrew Jefford AJ | Michael Palij
tasting / laying down / 2015 Barolo grass fi
Bruno Besa BB | Andrew Jefford AJ | Michael Palij
tasting / savor / Italian Whites 1: The North
have also been excluded at present, and sometimes
tasting / savor / Italian Whites 1: The North
Nicolas Belfrage MW NB | Bruno Besa BB | Andrew J
tasting / savor / Italian Whites 1: The North
Nicolas Belfrage MW NB | Bruno Besa BB | Andrew J
tasting / savor / Italian Whites 1: The North
Nicolas Belfrage MW NB | Bruno Besa BB | Andrew J
tasting / savor / Italian Whites 1: The North
Nicolas Belfrage MW NB | Bruno Besa BB | Andrew J
tasting / savor / Italian Whites 1: The North
Nicolas Belfrage MW NB | Bruno Besa BB | Andrew J
tasting / savor / Italian Whites 1: The North
Nicolas Belfrage MW NB | Bruno Besa BB | Andrew J
opinion / finish The terroir of the cellar