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FineWine
the world of
ISSUE 59 2018 / JASPER MORRIS MW: THE GOLDEN AGE OF BURGUNDY?
2016BURGUNDY/2013BAROLO/BEAUNE/BIERZO/MEUNIER/MTVEEDER
UNIQUE
CHARACTER
MULTIPLE
EXPRESSIONS
DRINK R E S P O N S I B LY
ISSUE 59 2018 ISSN 1743-503X
FINEW
THE WORLD OF INE
www.worldo newine.com
Founder Laurence Orbach
Editorial Adviser Hugh Johnson OBE
Contributing Editor Andrew Je ord
Editor Neil Beckett
neil.beckett@worldo newine.com
Deputy Editor David Williams
david.williams@worldo newine.com
Managing Editor Victoria Daskal
victoria.daskal@worldo newine.com
Tastings Editor Anastasia Edwards
anastasia.edwards@worldo newine.com
Food Editor Francis Percival
francis.p
FineWine the world of ISSUE 5
UNIQUE CHARACTER MULTIPLE EXPRESSIONS
ISSUE 59 2018 ISSN 1743-503X FINE
contents Issue 59 2018 Features
contents Issue 59 2018 Tastings Regulars 160 o
Established in 1973 by David and Heather Watson,
CONTR§IBUTORS We go to great lengths to persuade
contributors small domaines to the UK. He is
contributors Vancouver Island, Canada, though
opinion / l'âme du vin An unworldly beauty
IT'S RARE TO ACCESS SUCH A POWERFUL
NOU§VEAU All photography by Jon Wyand 16 | THE
2017 Burgundy: Quality and quantity hand in han
18 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 59 | 2018
February and also down in March in the Côte d’Or,
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
All photography by Jaco Engelbrecht / www.visualv
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review vine
Wineries also need water There is inevitably vari
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
pegged to grow by 10.4 percent by 2018. While Sta
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review mari
(–20°C) in the winter and hitting 104°F (40°C) in
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review lime
The wines are light, simple, fruity, and easy, th
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
Together, Confuron suggested, the two
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review betw
Hands across the vineyards: From Bordeaux to Cali
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 59 | 2018 | 35
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Brun
Giacosa’s cellar methods included relying on nati
opinion / prise de mousse Vinous intrigue (part 2
THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.
liquid§assets Looking toward a year relying heavi
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review LIVE
FINE & RARE WINE AUCTIONS • Signature Auctions F
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Au
Sales (US$) % sold by lot % sold by
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Heri
A LOOK AT ONLINE AUCTIONS PART II Last issue, we
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review WFW
Octavian Stored® Finer. Safer. More Valuable
PRE§VIEW A surprisingly useful vin
took up a commission for that most commercial of
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review a se
FINEWINE THE WORLD OF SUBSCRIBE
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
Photography by Jon Wyand Descriptive power The h
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review At h
is in the way it captures the diverse approaches
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
The support of a small number of farsighted polit
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review The D
—while virtually dismissing important regions, no
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review A Sho
valued precisely because it marks a transition to
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review 2015
TaSTinG Corney & Barrow, London; January 23, 201
opinion / à la volée Iceless or useless? Tom
rev§iew
T his was a rare chance to ass
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review TaST
PERFECT A fine wine’s life in bottle, initiated b
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review M
Photography (left) courtesy of Aigars Nords; (rig
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review taSt
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Barc
All photography courtesy of Sogrape After this b
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
develop to blackberry, licorice, and smoke, with
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
1.2 miles (2km) wide, is ideally suited to Cabern
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review othe
Total acidity has been just over 6% for the past
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review grea
NoteS 1954 This had been a revelation at the ea
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review a
1995 A wine that did not impress greatly at the
TaiTTinger Aware that quality is absolute, family
Pierre-Emmanuel's grandfather Pierre acquired and
All photography by Jon Wyand Taittinger now expo
www.taittinger.com
opinion / myths and realities The truth ab
Illustration by Dan Murrell Yeasts and rootstock
feature / face to face / Gilles de Larouzière
Photography by Jon Wyand THE WORLD OF FINE WINE
feature / face to face / Gilles de Larouzière m
communication. It’s a lot about production, very
feature / Burgundy Portrait / Laurent Cognard L
Photography by Jon Wyand THE WORLD OF FINE WINE
feature / then and now / Barrels and double-barre
wine labels refer to places we can find on maps,
feature / then and now / Barrels and double-barre
Jacquet,11 the first “literary” mention of the cl
feature / then and now / Barrels and double-barre
the Côte d’Or department, and later justice minis
feature / then and now / Barrels and double-barre
in the new, glittering department stores such as
feature / then and now / Barrels and double-barre
of the “grands vins” of Burgundy, and although ma
feature / then and now / Barrels and double-barre
Photography by Jon Wyand Denomination de
opinion / curiosities The meaning of wine
L'abus d'alcool est dangereux pour la santé, à co
feature / Anne Krebiehl MW/ Beaune’s Premiers Cru
Beaune’s Premiers Crus: identity, image, and real
feature / Anne Krebiehl MW/ Beaune’s Premiers Cru
Beaune, as well as in various villages along the
the plots they had acquired until then were too s
them very rarely because they have become expensi
feature / Anne Krebiehl MW/ Beaune’s Premiers Cru
this change in 2016, after taking up the position
feature / Roger Morris / The Resurrection of Moun
The ResuRRecTion of MounT VeedeR After years of fl
feature / Roger Morris / The Resurrection of Moun
Despite the recent spate of attention and influx o
feature / Roger Morris / The Resurrection of Moun
as he says, “We didn’t have to turn the water off
feature / Jasper Morris MW / The Golden Age of Bu
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 59 | 2018 | 131
feature / Jasper Morris MW / The Golden Age of Bu
I have been fortunate to live through the golden
feature / Jasper Morris MW / The Golden Age of Bu
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 59 | 2018 | 135
feature / Jasper Morris MW / The Golden Age of Bu
2005 v 20015 EN PRIMEUR PRICES 2005
feature / Jasper Morris MW / The Golden Age of Bu
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 59 | 2018 | 139
opinion / sinophile China: Any more surprises?
Viña von Siebenthal Aconcagua Valley, Chile
feature / vinifera / Meunier Meunier MArvel o
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 59 | 2018 | 143
feature / vinifera / Meunier Bournerais s
Meunier. “We don’t even know what percentage of g
feature / vinifera / Meunier Making Meunier isn’
TAsTiNg Didier Ducos NV Absolu Meunier There’s
feature / genius loci / Bonnes Mares Bonnes M
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 59 | 2018 | 149
feature / genius loci / Bonnes Mares
cherries—red or black depending on the vintage. M
feature / genius loci / Bonnes Mares tasting Al
Drouhin-Laroze 2014 Bright oaky nose, with raspb
feature / vin voyage / Georgian wine: Beyond the
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 59 | 2018 | 155
feature / vin voyage / Georgian wine: Beyond the
Front Natural Lovers of natural wine believe what
feature / vin voyage / Georgian wine: Beyond the
Aleksander Chavchavadze, it was fully restored in
opinion / one bottle / Château de Tracy 2012 Poui
e h T O of YOUR CHANCE TO WIN d F i l
TasTings the world of fine wi
Contents 166 Laying Down 2016 Burgundy: A Li
individually to the tasters and reproduce them in
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy 2016 Burg
aggressive and sound acidity. With a few exceptio
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy CHABLIS
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy Rich an
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy that is
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy the pal
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy DOMAINE
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy domaine
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy DOMAINE
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy DOMAINE
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy champy
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy of ener
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy tinged,
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy Volnay P
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2016 Burgundy DOMAINE
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2013 Barolo 2013Barolo
As many producers and critics have pointed out, t
tasting / laying down / 2013 Barolo Ceretto Ba
Bruno Besa BB | Stephen Brook SB | Andrew Jefford
tasting / laying down / 2013 Barolo and almos
Bruno Besa BB | Stephen Brook SB | Andrew Jefford
tasting / laying down / 2013 Barolo is worryi
Bruno Besa BB | Stephen Brook SB | Andrew Jefford
tasting / savor / German Spätburgunder GermanS
Acidity and longevity As diverse as these wines w
tasting / savor / German Spätburgunder Weingut
Andrew Jefford AJ | Anne Krebiehl MW AK | Jancis
tasting / savor / German Spätburgunder quite
Andrew Jefford AJ | Anne Krebiehl MW AK | Jancis
tasting / savor / German Spätburgunder really
Andrew Jefford AJ | Anne Krebiehl MW AK | Jancis
tasting / savor / German Spätburgunder red fo
Andrew Jefford AJ | Anne Krebiehl MW AK | Jancis
tasting / savor / Bierzo Bierzo AFlAvory serio
Exceptional promise Jesús Barquín was impressed w
tasting / savor / Bierzo Dominio de Tares Bemb
Jesús Barquín JB | Andrew Jefford AJ | Richard Ma
tasting / savor / Bierzo potential of Bierzo,
Jesús Barquín JB | Andrew Jefford AJ | Richard Ma
opinion / finish Grand et petit: A French fable
Where the World’s Finest Wines Meet The World’s F