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Best regards
Zmags
ISSUE 63 2019 / £30 / US$45
FineWine
THE WORLD OF
ISSUE 63 2019 / ANNE KREBIEHL MW PAINTS FIVE PINOT NOIR VIGNETTES
2017 BURGUNDY /2015 BARBARESCO / DUGAT AND DUGAT-PY / PRIETO PICUDO
ISSUE 63 2019 ISSN 1743-503X
FINEW
THE WORLD OF INE
www.worldo newine.com
Founder Laurence Orbach
Editorial Adviser Hugh Johnson OBE
Contributing Editor Andrew Je ord
Editor Neil Beckett
neil.beckett@worldo newine.com
Deputy Editor David Williams
david.williams@worldo newine.com
Managing Editor Tanya Casey
tanya.casey@worldo newine.com
Tastings Editor Anastasia Edwards
anastasia.edwards@worldo newine.com
Food Editor Francis Percival
ISSUE 63 2019 / £30 / US$45 FineWine
ISSUE 63 2019 ISSN 1743-503X FINE
CONTENTS Issue 63 2019 Features
CONTENTS Issue 63 2019 Regulars
In 1973 Heather and David Watson bought a 25 acre
CONTENTS Issue 63 2019 Tastings
Grands Mécènes Fondateurs
CONTR§IBUTORS We go to great lengths to persuade
contributors Regular tastings with the globe’
contributors the inaugural Wine Website of th
Octavian Stored® The Ultimate Fine W
opinion / l'âme du vin Wine on the tongue
NOU§VEAU Photography by Jon Wyand 18 | THE WORL
2018 Burgundy: Another bumper, and record, year
20 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63 | 2019
Photography (opposite) by Jon Wyand; (above) cour
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
Henri Mairet’s session, however, is consi
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
“People were chosen to offer a complete cross- se
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Naple
All photography by Christina Rasmussen THE WORLD
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
launched in 2015, and it seems a work in progress
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
Photography (top) courtesy of Villa d’Este; (bott
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review emba
(Chloé Roullier-Gall, Marianna Lucio, Laurence No
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
Crème de la crème For anybody minded to score win
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
time when he approached Basset to ask if he would
feature / de gustibus / Hugh Johnson HARR
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63 | 2019 | 39
LIQUID§ASSETS Burgundy leads the way, cruising al
One of more than 250 lots of Domaine de la Romané
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
IT’S A CELLAR, NOT A VAULT
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review AUCT
5 Annual global wine auctions revenues since
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
7 Wine auction houses with revenues above $1
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review WFW
Find your pleasure, large or small at Switzerlan
opinion / prise de mousse Appellationism II: C
THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.
PRE§VIEW The preeminent paradigm of plea
primarily agricultural resources. When fruit and
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Euph
THE WORLD OF DON'T MISS THE NEXT ISSUE Ga
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
Keller and Wittmann, Parr and Mackay express “sho
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Gra
2015 professor of European studies and head of de
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
Larzac” since vintage 2008. Only since 2014, name
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
Photography by Mark Skinner Phillips p
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review 2
2016 Romanée-St-Vivant (27hl/ha; 1,304 dozen; ave
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
2007 Dom Ruinart Happily at ’06s and ’07s?
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review D
With sea-aging, once you get to a certain depth,
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
Nyetimber 1086 and all that Margaret R
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Yalu
Bodega Garzón Balasto: In the Crystalline Bas
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Ferr
TASTING Ferreira 2016 Vinhas Velhas Vintage (20%
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Mout
Morris launches Inside Burgundy The leading auth
REV§IEW 78 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE |
Dom Pérignon 1990–2009: A best of all possible ta
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review THE
and wonder, therefore, if the wine was just too o
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review de
P2 1990 Rosé (75cl) The rosés at Dom Pérignon ma
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review
What, then, had attracted Ruini to the post? “Tus
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Ther
Glorious depth, richness, sweetness, and mineral
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review 30 Y
A Rhônish revolution First, a few thoughts about
nouveau / liquid assets / preview / review Afte
INTO THE MODERN ERA (2009–13) 2009 (36% Syrah, 2
opinion / myths and realities There is no such th
inventions, so a natural winemaker would ferment
feature / face to face / Jeff Brinkman JE
All photography © Mark Ryan / Flow Films THE WOR
feature / face to face / Jeff Brinkman Rhy
To a non-scientist, it might seem strange to
feature / ferment / The tyranny of nomenclature a
the “orange wine” name is not clear. Gravner hate
feature / Burgundy Portrait / Erwan Faiveley
Photography by Jon Wyand THE WORLD OF FINE WINE
feature / wine and words / Tasting Notes
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63 | 2019 | 103
feature / then and now / A Priest and His Wine: V
F or the middle fiv
feature / then and now / A Priest and His Wine: V
Picture Credit THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63
feature / then and now / A Priest and His Wine: V
The brokers Delachere referred to contro
Photography by Jon Wyand PINOT NOIR VIGNET
feature / Anne Krebiehl MW / Pinot Noir Vignettes
Tahmiene and Moe Momtazi Maysara Winery, McMinnvi
feature / Anne Krebiehl MW / Pinot Noir Vignettes
where perfection, however you want to describe it
feature / Angels' Share / Grower Cognac SCEN
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63 |2019 | 117
feature / Angels’ Share / Grower Cognac
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63 | 2019 | 119
feature / Angels' Share / Grower Cognac Picture
Picture Credit THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63
122 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63 | 2019
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63 |2019 | 123
124 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63 | 2019
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63 | 2019 | 125
126 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63 | 2019
Images made with the cooperation of Domaines Cogn
feature / Bruce Schoenfeld / In Pursuit of Prieto
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63 | 2019 | 129
feature / Bruce Schoenfeld / In Pursuit of Prieto
He thought that I was pulling his leg. A white wi
feature / Bruce Schoenfeld / In Pursuit of Prieto
get the words out. “They are… Prieto Picudo?” I a
opinion / curiosities In vino veritas. Or is ther
Terroir wines designed to share #tavolataVS Dri
feature / symposium / George Taber Dinner
Identity parade What form should a dinner dedicat
feature / symposium / George Taber Dinner
feature / on the vine / Domaine Claude Dugat & Do
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63 | 2019 | 141
feature / on the vine / Domaine Claude Dugat & Do
tasted by those not blessed with a direct allocat
feature / on the vine / Domaine Claude Dugat & Do
Picture Credit THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 63
feature / on the vine / Domaine Claude Dugat & Do
already be quite an achievement,” he told me—but
feature / veraison / American women winemakers in
One of the five is, admittedly, not a full-ti
feature / veraison / American women winemakers in
support wasn’t needed, for the wines are very goo
feature / veraison / American women winemakers in
Viña von Siebenthal Aconcagua Valley, Chile
feature / genius loci / Roussillon
ROUSSILLON: THE RISE OF DRY IN AN IN-BETWEEN
feature / genius loci / Roussillon But the
While it’s easy to think of Banyuls and
feature / genius loci / Roussillon
Les Vignerons de Maury l’Akme Maury Sec 2016 (70%
opinion / one bottle / 2011 Château Cheval Blanc
WORLD'S BEST WINE LISTS AWARDS 2019
LEADING THE NOBLE PURSUIT OF FINE
TASTINGS THE WORLD OF FINE WI
Contents 166 Laying Down 2017 Burgundy: Joy
individually to the tasters and reproduce them in
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy 2017 BURG
delicate and very ripe. That is the key of the vi
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy CHABLIS
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy sui gen
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy DOMAINE
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy Grands E
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy onto br
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy tannic;
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy DOMAINE
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy Puligny-
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy roughne
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy Corton M
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy and Mor
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy Clean,
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2017 Burgundy Puligny-
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2015 Barbaresco 2015 BA
Honors shared Barbaresco has four constituent vil
tasting / laying down / 2015 Barbaresco Castel
Bruno Besa BB | Stephen Brook SB | Andrew Jefford
tasting / laying down / 2015 Barbaresco style
Bruno Besa BB | Stephen Brook SB | Andrew Jefford
tasting / laying down / 2015 Barbaresco AJ | C
Bruno Besa BB | Stephen Brook SB | Andrew Jefford
tasting / savor / Scheurebe SCHEUREBE THE WAY O
Riesling.9 It also became clear that the variety
tasting / savor / Scheurebe Horst Sauer Escher
Andrew Je ord AJ | Anne Krebiehl MW AK | Stephan
tasting / savor / Scheurebe Seehof Scheurebe M
Andrew Jefford AJ | Anne Krebiehl MW AK | Stephan
tasting / savor / Scheurebe a lively lemon st
Andrew Jefford AJ | Anne Krebiehl MW AK | Stephan
tasting / savor / Languedoc Reds LANGUEDOC REDS
Top scores of 96 (from me), 95 (from Simon Field)
tasting / savor / Languedoc Reds Château Capio
Simon Field MW SF | Andrew Jefford AJ | Jancis Ro
tasting / savor / Languedoc Reds Borie La Vita
Simon Field MW SF | Andrew Jefford AJ | Jancis Ro
tasting / savor / Languedoc Reds Henri & Laure
Simon Field MW SF | Andrew Jefford AJ | Jancis Ro
opinion / finish Roots Michel Bettane A
BOTTLE SHAPES MAY CHANGE. TAYLOR'S PIONE
Where the World’s Finest Wines Meet The World’s F